Whitby Lifeboat Crew 9th February 1861
Whitby’s current lifeboat station sits across the harbour from the previous one, now the Whitby Lifeboat Museum. A little further along the pier, the sea lapping at the slipway holds memories of lives lost and saved.
On 9th February 1861, Whitby’s lifeboat crew set to sea on their sixth shout of the day when disaster struck. Capsized by a rogue wave, the sea claimed the lives of eleven brave souls. Henry Freeman was the sole survivor.
Captured in photographs and statues, he stands as a reminder of that storm. At primary school, I learned that one of my classmates was a descendant of Henry.
Robert Leadlay, however, is a name I only recently came to know. Along with his brother Matthew — and John Storr (coxswain), John Dixon, Robert Harland, William Walker, Isaac Dobson, John Philpot, William Storr, William Tyreman, George Martin, and Christopher Collins — they made up the crew that did not return.
Robert Leadlay was my great great great great grandfather.
Their names are carved in stone at St Mary’s Church, at the top of the 199 steps — a quiet reminder of their sacrifice, and an inspiration to each generation who choose to serve. The boats have changed, but the spirit of those who go to sea to help others remains.
I often sit near Whitby’s current lifeboat to eat my lunch. I do so now with a new sense of pride.
Whitby West Pier Lighthouse
Walking along the West Pier, the lighthouse slowly grows.
The pier is wide and solid, providing shelter for the harbour and a bracing walk on a breezy day. At its end stands the lighthouse. Beyond it, the walk feels more exposed — along the planks of the narrower extension. For many, the lighthouse is far enough.
Built from sandstone in 1831, it is older and, at 84 feet, the taller of the town’s two lighthouses. For nearly 200 years it has stood as a beacon for those at sea. Many will remember climbing to the top for the view.
The tower is said to be haunted by the ghost of a lighthouse keeper who died falling down the narrow stairs.
I proposed to my wife at the foot of this lighthouse.
Whether you turn around here or continue to the end of the pier, it marks a point people return to — in person, or in memory.
There’s literary history here too. In 1885, during what was described as “a storm of great violence”, the Russian ship Dmitry ran aground here. The event is said to have inspired Bram Stoker, whose Dracula begins with the doomed ship Demeter running ashore releasing its dark cargo.
A small beach, but one with plenty of memories, some still to be made.
Fortunes Smoked Kippers
Kippers are split, salted and cold-smoked herring — often eaten for breakfast, but just as good at any time of day.
Take a morning walk along cobbled Church Street and follow your nose onto Henrietta Street, where you’ll find Fortune’s Smokehouse. The Fortune family have been smoking kippers here, beneath the cliff, since 1872. They know how it should be done.
This isn’t fast food — take your time.
There are many ways to cook kippers, but one of the simplest is jugging, which has the added benefit of keeping the cooking smells contained. Place your kipper head-down in a large jug and pour over boiling water. Leave for ten minutes. When ready, the spine will pull away easily.
Serve with eggs — perhaps poached, yolk still soft — and a slice of buttered toast.
Savour the soft texture and the smoky, slightly sweet flavour. Best enjoyed in Whitby. Posted if needed.
From Behind the Counter
On the Stereo
Dr Feel Good – Raw and uncompromising, their rhythm and blues found its breakthrough in the 1976 live album Stupidity.
Coming Up
Whitby Goth Weekend 1st-3rd May – A celebration of the alternative, drawing visitors from far and wide.
Talking About
The Artemis II mission . Ambitious, impressive, and a reminder of what’s possible.
